How to Style Thick Hair for Men: 5 Practical Tips

Product update: By Vilain Powermade has been improved and reformulated as By Vilain Flow Pomade. The original images have been retained and may show the former Powermade product.

To style thick hair, start with a haircut that distributes the weight well, dry it into the shape you want and add finishing product in small amounts. More wax is rarely the first thing to try when your hair feels bulky or refuses to sit down.

Thick hair can be straight, wavy or curly. Tell your barber which parts feel difficult: the sides sticking out, the crown sitting too high or the fringe becoming heavy. That is more useful than simply asking for your hair to be made thinner.

1. Choose the shape before removing bulk

A shorter cut can reduce styling time, while a longer top gives you more room to sweep the hair back or work with a wave. Ask your barber where weight should stay and where it can be reduced. The right approach depends on the cut and how your hair falls.

Do not assume thinning scissors are essential for every thick hairstyle. Discuss the result you want and let your barber choose the technique. Bring a reference image with a similar texture to yours.

Look	Why choose it?	What to discuss
Buzz or crew cut	Very little daily shaping	Length on top and how often to tidy it
Textured crop	A compact shape with separation	Fringe length and bulk through the crown
Quiff or pompadour	Uses a longer top to create height	How much drying and styling you want to do
Medium-length layers	Room for natural movement	Weight at the sides and how the ends sit

2. Make the hair manageable before styling

Rinse out shampoo thoroughly and use conditioner according to your hair’s needs. If the ends tangle, work through them gently before trying to brush the whole style into place. Avoid leaving heavy residue at the roots when your goal is lift.

You do not need to copy someone else’s wash schedule. Use our five hair-care tips to build a routine around your scalp and texture.

3. Use the dryer to set the direction

Start with damp hair and apply your pre-styler according to its directions. By Vilain Sidekick is a pre-styling option with heat protection.

For a flatter shape, guide the hair down and back as you dry. For height at the front, lift that section upwards and then back. Work through manageable sections rather than trying to shape the whole head at once. Keep the dryer moving on a low heat setting.

4. Choose hold and finish separately

Thick hair does not automatically need the heaviest product. Decide whether you want a firm, textured result or a softer style that moves.

• Matte texture with strong hold: By Vilain Dynamite Clay.
• Light, flexible control with natural shine: By Vilain Flow Pomade.

Spread a small amount between your palms and work it through the style before refining the front. Add more only where needed. Flow Pomade suits softer movement; choose stronger hold when you want a more fixed shape.

Adapt the method to straight, wavy or curly thick hair

“Thick” can describe a lot of strands, coarse individual strands, or both. Tell your barber what you experience rather than relying on that one word. A dense head of fine hair can need a different approach from coarse curls.

Your texture	Practical starting point	What to avoid
Straight and dense	Section the top and dry each section in its intended direction. Discuss bulk around the crown and above the ears.	Applying a large scoop only to the outer layer while the hair underneath remains unshaped
Wavy	Choose between a smoother finish and visible waves before drying. For a relaxed look, arrange the bends with your fingers and keep some movement.	Alternating between flattening the waves and scrunching them while expecting a consistent result
Curly or coily	Detangle with conditioning support and shape manageable sections. Discuss the dry outline with a barber experienced in your texture.	Assuming that more thinning or stronger wax is automatically the answer to volume

A simple routine for a controlled, swept-back finish

1. Blot the hair until it is damp, then distribute your pre-styler as directed.
2. Separate the top from the sides with your fingers or suitable clips. Work from the back towards the front so you can reach the layers underneath.
3. Guide each section backwards with low heat and a moving dryer. Keep the sides closer to the head if you want a narrower outline.
4. Spread a small amount of finishing product across both palms. Apply through the hair rather than depositing it in one spot at the fringe.
5. Check the profile in a second mirror. Add definition only where it is missing.

This routine is a starting point for a swept-back shape. If you want defined natural curls, use the curl routine linked below instead of brushing them into a smooth finish.

Why does thick hair still feel difficult after using strong hold?

If the top is clumped but the sides remain bulky, stronger hold may not solve the problem. Check distribution, drying direction and the cut before changing products. If one section is consistently difficult, take a photo of it before fixing it and show your barber at the next visit.

5. Refine the cut when styling becomes a struggle

If the sides spring out again as soon as you stop styling, or the top has become too heavy to lift, show your barber exactly what happens. A change in length or weight may help more than another layer of product.

A quiff concentrates lift at the front; a pompadour usually forms a fuller swept-back shape. For the latter, follow our pompadour styling guide. For thick curls, start with our curly-hair guide and work with the curl pattern.

Related guides

• Hair Wax, Clay, Fibre or Pomade: Which Should You Choose?
• How to Style Curly Hair for Men: A Practical Routine